Time for Tomatoes

February seems to be about all things RED. Valentine's Day, Heart Month, and now tomato planting time!

If, like me, you live in the low desert of Arizona, there are a few tricks to growing tomatoes. Selecting the best type of tomato helps.  Because tomatoes can split with too much water and water is one of the most challenging elements to regulate, I like to plant cherry or grape tomatoes.  An especially prolific type is called Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes.  I planted one this fall as an experiment and it has grown slowly, but provided me a handfull of ripe tomaotes all winter.  I expect it will take off once the weather warms up a bit more!  However, my friend Liz has one that is on it's third season and provides bowls of tomatoes a week and grows as tall as her house!

Tomatoes are tricky. Blossom End Rot, is a common disorder of tomatoes in the low desert. It is believed to be caused by a calcium deficiency in the plant as a result of stress due to uneven irrigation. Our desert soils and irrigation water generally have plenty of calcium, so calcium deficiency problems in the soil are rare and adding calcium to the soil is not effective. Instead, apply several inches of an organic mulch to help retain constant moisture by regular irrigation to even out water movement in the plants. For more information, refer to U of A Fact Sheet "Tomato Blossom End Rot in the Low Desert".

Here's an excerpt from a Master Gardener publication on planting them to increase their sturdiness.

"When you are ready to put home-grown or purchased plants into the ground, select stocky transplants about six to ten inches tall. Set tomato transplants in the ground covering the stems so that only two or three sets of true leaves are exposed. Horizontal planting of tomato plants is an effective way to make plants stronger, especially leggy ones. Roots will form along the buried portion of the stem, giving better growth and less chance of plant injury from a too-weak stem. Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start. If non-biodegradable containers are used, knock the plants out of the pots before transplanting, and loosen the roots somewhat. Press the soil firmly."
 
You can read their publication on tomatoes here.
 
Slow Food Phoenix is hosting a Tomato Fest February 13th from 10am-4pm at Maya's Farm at The Farm at South Mountain located at 6106 S. 32nd Street in Phoenix. Tomatoes can be hard to grow in the desert. Come join us and learn all the ins and outs of being successful with tomatoes.

They will have classes taught by local tomato experts on choosing the variety that's right for you, prep and planting in your garden, pruning and caring for your tomatoes, and how to keep them around all year long. To attend the event and purchase tomato starts is free. To attend any one or all three of the classes the cost is $10 each or all three for $25. To RSVP for the event and purchase tickets please visit http://slowfoodtomato.eventbrite.com/ Class size is limited to 35 people for each class.

I hope this encourage you to plant a few tomayoes this year.  I know I will plant a few heirloom type just for a bit of variety.

Happy Digging,
The Garden Goddess
http://www.down2earthgardens.com/

Do NOT Pull Out Those Tomato Plants

If you are like me you do not like to see half dead plants in the garden - nor water something that is not producing. I always give a plant several chances before I take it out of the garden.

Here in Phoenix, AZ we have had 18 days of temps OVER 110 degrees so far this summer and we have another heat advisory this week. The tomato plants have stopped setting flowers at around 95 degrees which was back on June. Any tomaotes on the vine are ripening almost over night. I like to leave them on the vine as long as possible, but lately they have over ripened and become bird and ant food!

Luckily, I came across a reply to a question about tomato plants on the Maricopa County Master Gardeners listserve this weekend. I wanted to share it with you so you could experiment and perhaps get a second crop this fall. I have not used or researched any of the products he recommends, so please do your own due diligence to be sure you are using a product in your garden you are comfortable using!

Here's the post:


YES... you CAN grow a respectable crop before winter!!!
If the tomato plants are "shaggy", give them a bit of a haircut.
Pick up some fertilizer; 10-24-8. Those "Jobe tomato fertilizer" stakes work okay.
Also, pick up some "Blossom Set" and begin spraying the plants (especially new growth) by mid August. When practical, examine your plants daily -- early in the morning -- watching for new flowers. Spray them so your plant will feel "sexy" and set fruit. :-)
Depending upon where you reside, you have until mid November in Tucson or Phoenix.
After mid November it's a crapshoot. Should we experience an early winter cold snap, harvest your prettiest specimens (with as much tomato stem and branch as
possible)and allow them to finish ripening indoors on the sill or near the window.
If you are growing "heirlooms", they will ripen more nicely and more flavorful indoors than "hybrid" tomatoes. For the remaining not-too-pretty tomatoes, cover with a frost cloth or an old, dark colored sheet... and remember to thoroughly water the plants the night BEFORE an expected frost. (Bill, keep in mind that tomatoes often suffer severe damage at temperatures of 36 degrees. At 32 they look pathetic.)

For anyone else interested in growing a late crop, check Lowe's, Home Depot, etc., for "Stupice" or "Yellow Pear" plants. Both are heirlooms, grow rapidly, and if an unexpected cold snap is forecast -- they will still taste better ripened indoors than anything you can purchase at the grocer's!

Genie -- Tomato lover in Tucson

I hope you find this useful - I am going to give this a try - I would love some more fresh homegrown tomatoes this fall!

Happy Digging, Doreen aka the Garden Goddess
www.down2earthgardens.com